We source our tweeds and wool fabrics from British manufacturers ranging from the heights of the Scottish hills to the valleys of the Yorkshire dales using British raw wool.
Dyeing, Drying and Blending
The bales of raw wool are scoured, cleaned and combed to provide the best quality raw wool. The base wool threads are then dyed, using the finest dyes, in large vats to produce individual base colours. The moist wool is then dried using a mixture of spin and tumble drying processes, it is then separated and weighed and then proportioned out into carefully selected base colours. These individual base colours are then intermingled together to produce the rich complex colour palettes seen in our completed fabrics. Rather than single dyed yarns, these blends together create a multiple of unique rich colours and textures which closely resemble the tones and hues of our landscapes reflected in each individual design.
Carding is an essential part of the production process, to ensure uniformity and alignment of fibres. The wool mixture is lifted into the hopper of the carding machine where giant rollers carry it through to the first stage of carding. Blended with water for lubrication , the wool is combed through tiny spikes on the rollers, and moved in different directions to smooth out any impurities and thus ensuring a smooth, straight fibres, making them fluffier and lighter. These fibres now have a regular consistency ready for spinning.
Spinning yarn is the next important process in producing our beautiful colours. The yarn needs to be spun to provide the strength required for weaving. The yarn is pulled then twists are incorporated per inch , finally being wound onto cones. A fine but strong yarn of regular thickness is the result.
The warp is the long group of threads used in weaving, through which the weft (crosswise threads) are woven in between to create a given design or pattern. These threads are continuous and so must be put into the right sequence at the start. The group of threads are then organised in their correct positions on the warping frame.
The warp threads are then placed onto a loom over and under which other threads (the weft) are passed to create the beautiful clothes. At each stage of this process, it is checked to ensure uniformity and consistency.
Final Phase Cleansing, Scouring, Milling and Finishing.
The fabric is then washed again to remove any further impurities or oils, preferably using only pure water, direct from natural sources, with no impurities or chemicals. Originally the fabric was “walked” by women treading in water to remove the impurities.
Today, this is done by machine. The result is a softer and thicker cloth. It is then spun, milled and dried naturally. Any other additions such as fire retardant and water resistant treatments are then added if required. Finally, each piece is steamed and pressed to help resist shrinkage. The final result is a luxurious soft and exquisitely colourful piece of fabric produced in the same fashion that has been done over many generations.